Innovation is one thing that adds spice to life and if it beith an economic one, there is nothing to ask for more. Photography (image capturing) has always been difficult, and if it’s concerning aerial photography, one needs to keep in mind a lot of things, especially the stability part of the camera.

Spending $100 for making a complete, fully functioning gyro-stabilized camera is not much of an ask. Is it?

At least not for those photographers who spend a lot of time, money and energy in clicking those picks and in the end come to know that the picks were blur due to a small error which just costs $100.

How to make a gyro-stabilized camera

The secret ingredient is a ‘heading hold” gyro that has a special circuitry to resist gyro drift (one can pick any of these, ranging from $74 to $199 as per the requirement.

For the tilting camera mount and base, you’ll need a sheet of relatively thin aluminum e.g. 32X6X12 sheet. Anything thicker won’t bend properly. This one is designed for a Canon Digital Elph camera (all the recent vintages, from the 500 to 900 series, are about the same size); if you’re using a different camera you may need to modify some dimensions slightly to fit.

Another problem is taking pictures on a quicker note-at least twice a second. That means putting the camera in “continuous shooting” mode, which unfortunately can’t be triggered with the computer-controlled IR trigger. So do not forget to use a mechanical shutter switch. It just holds the shutter down when activated, either by the on-board computer or manually with a switch on the R/C transmitter.

You might want to try disassembling the camera, to get at the shutter release circuit. In most cameras, it’s a 2 position switch - position 1 is auto focus, position 2 triggers the shutter. This way, you can fire it with either 1 or 2 channels, ditch the servos, and gain weight capacity and servos for the other gyro axis.

Via: Thelongtail92122